Puppy Packs

Puppy teething doesn't surprise most families, although just how much puppies use their teeth may. Human babies have hands, so they use hands and mouths for necessary learning and exploring as their brains develop. Canine babies must do this exploration mostly with their mouths.

Puppy teeth are quite sharp, and the sharp tips become somewhat smoother through teething/chewing. When the permanent teeth emerge, they are not as sharp. At this point the pup may be housetrained, and early teething has largely subsided. Whatever confinement the family was using to keep the pup out of trouble, they may decide to discontinue. Then it happens.

The chewing is not over when puppy's adult teeth come in. Most dogs will continue to engage in chewing behavior for the rest of their life, although the amount of chewing that they do may lesson as they age.

This completely normal stage of dog development is more pronounced in some breeds than others, and in some individual dogs than others. It can be greatly aggravated by anxiety, including separation anxiety, but some dogs who are simply going through the destructive chewing stage are diagnosed with separation anxiety.

To complicate the situation, you can give your dog separation anxiety by 1) coming home when you've imprudently left your dog with access to toothsome possessions of yours, 2) seeing a mess, and 3) freaking out at the dog. Do this enough times, and any dog will develop anxiety. Some dogs will develop anxiety if you do it just once. You think, using human logic, that the dog full well knows why you had that conniption fit at the sight of your sofa in pieces. The dog, on the other hand, has no earthly idea why you got mad.

Naturally, the next time you're gone and leave the dog with access to tempting toothables, the physical urging (it may even be pain) in the dog's jaws will result in another chewing episode. After all, the dog is not able to make a mental connection between chewing stuff at 2 p.m. and you getting angry at 5:30 p.m. You come home to the mess, and your human logic interprets this as deliberate defiance.

You act like a human, and the dog acts like a dog. Most dogs will submit to your anger the first few times, until your not accepting the submission and insisting on punishing the dog anyway results in the dog feeling cornered. Then all bets are off as to how the dog might react. You can ruin the dog's temperament.

Other dogs, not so submissive, will see your anger-completely unexplainable from the dog's point of view-and react in a defensive manner. Either way, there are no winners here, only losers. The dog may ultimately lose his or her life, since destructive chewing is a major cause of people giving up their dogs. Often the first step is to put the dog outdoors to live. This can weaken the family's bond with the dog and also introduce new issues, such as barking that disturbs neighbors and brings authorities to your door.

Dogs need chew toys of good quality that are safe for the chewing habits of each particular dog. It takes observation to determine which toys are okay for which dogs. Provide the dog with a variety of textures, so that whatever the teeth are screaming for at any given moment, the dog can locate a toy-within reach-that will fill the need. Cow hooves, antlers, and real bones are too hard and can break teeth. Any toy that can be dented with a fingernail is acceptable.

When you're not able to supervise the dog, provide a safe area for the dog to rest. A crate, a comfortable dog run and a room in the house with a baby gate (or two, one stacked above the other to provide adequate height) are all possibilities that work for some dogs. Avoid putting the dog behind a closed door in a room, since this often leads to the dog developing habits such as clawing up doors or the flooring at the bases of doors. Baby gates that allow the dog to see through the doorway tend to avoid these complications.

The destructive chewing stage can last for quite some time, but in most cases will end by the time the dog is 2 years old or so. If you do an excellent job of directing a puppy to appropriate toys using the instructions below, some dogs will be focused on their toys by the time they're a year old and able to have more house freedom. If you've waited until a destructive chewing problem has emerged and are now starting to deal with it in a dog several months of age, plan on restricting house freedom until the dog is a bit older.

Either way, don't just give up and toss the dog outside because you don't want to use a crate or other confinement forever. Rarely does it need to be forever, unless you have a situation that requires confinement for other reasons. Destructive chewing is a stage that, with your help, the majority of dogs can come through very well.

Another tool you need for this training is a bottle of Bitter Apple spray or similar product. Bitter Apple has been around for a long time, doesn't harm dogs if they ingest it, and doesn't stain most surfaces. It's also readily available. This is a training tool, not a protect-the-house tool. Alcohol-based, the spray evaporates quickly and has to be applied three to four times a day to keep its bittering effect active.

Let's look at a teachable moment. You are in the same room with your dog, perhaps watching television or reading a book. A few good dog toys are within easy reach on the floor. The Bitter Apple spray is also handy. The dog, exploring, starts to chew (or any movement showing intention to chew) an inappropriate object.

You get up. Take along the Bitter Apple spray and a dog toy as you calmly go to the dog. Spray the OBJECT the dog is chewing (do not spray the dog), while you calmly say, "Leave it." Instantly animate the dog toy and get the dog excited enough to want it. Do not carry this to extreme teasing-it's not a game. Your goal is simply to direct the dog's attention to the toy, not to agitate the dog into a state of high activity. You want the dog to continue thinking of chewing, which dogs do when relaxing.

As soon as the dog wants the toy, give it to the dog. When the dog settles with it to chew, softly praise the dog and withdraw, back to what you were doing before. You've completed a successful lesson.

You will need to repeat this many, many times. You're helping your dog form strong chewing habits of choosing a dog toy every time. A young dog with jaws urging "Chew! Chew! Chew!" is apt to make many mistakes. You actually want these mistakes made in front of you-you do not want to scare the dog into hiding from you to chew.

The longer the dog was allowed to keep making mistakes about chewing before the human family wised up and started this training, the more habits there will be to overcome. Additionally, the dog needs time to mature. Your patience will pay off. Your dog is learning a lot of other good things in the process of this training, including the fact that you're smart and a good person.

If you notice the dog going back to an inappropriate item of a certain texture unlike the dog's toys, by all means get some toys of that texture. This may be a texture your dog's teeth need at that point in development. Don't use discarded human items for toys. It's not fair to expect a dog to consistently know the difference between old shoes and new shoes! Use dog toys. During the most rampant chewing stage, it pays to bring in new and interesting toys frequently. Some people rotate the toys to keep them interesting. Just remember to keep an assortment of textures available to the dog at all times. This will likely mean you have some toys in every room where you and the dog spend time.

Please note that cow hooves and antlers are not appropriate chew toys for your dog. Chew toys must have some give to them; a great way to test this is to see if potential toys can be dented with a finger nail.

If you find something your dog has chewed and damaged when you weren't watching, it's okay to do the training maneuver (calmly) if the dog is still chewing it. If the dog is done chewing it, you've missed your chance. There is nothing you can teach your dog about destructive chewing by punishing the dog. Your best bet is simply to do a better job with confinement and supervision, so that the dog is not again put into a position to make this mistake without your help to choose the right toy.

You're helping your dog form habits for life. Not only do you want the dog to chew dog toys instead of your things, you also want your dog to form the chewing habit! Yes, that's right! The dog who continues to chew on appropriate toys through life will typically have better dental health. If you've ever had a dog with teeth that quickly got dirty and infected and had to have a lot of dental work, you'll realize that you want a dog who chews. Of course, you want the dog to chew the right toys!


Lundgren, B., DVM. (2017). VetPartner Featured Articles. Retrieved July 14, 2020, from https://veterinarypartner.vin.com/default.aspx?pid=19239

A crate-trained dog makes traveling, potty training, and bedtime much easier and more enjoyable for both you and your dog. A crate will also give your pooch it's own safe, familiar place to rest and relax.

Disclaimer: This blog post is not an all-around guide to crate training. It will give a few general don'ts and do's and then provide some basic games to play as you are introducing your dog to his crate. There are several training blogs, books and other resources for additional crate training. If you take your time and stay positive your dog will learn to love their crate in no time!

The goals for the following crate training exercises are:

• Teaching the dog that they receive rewards (in the form of praise and cookies) for being in the crate.
• Teaching the dog to be quiet and calm in the crate.
• Teaching the dog to enter the crate and stay inside until they are given a release word.

It's important that you pick the right sized crate for your dog. The crate should be large enough so that the dog can stand up and turn around. If you have a puppy, buy a crate that will be the appropriate size when the dog is full grown and use a space divider that can be adjusted as the pup matures. A cardboard box is the perfect space divider since you can simply replace it with smaller sizes as the puppy grows. If the crate is too large the puppy is more likely to go to the bathroom inside it.

• Don't use the crate as a time out or punishment tool. The crate should always be a positive place for a dog.
• Don't force the dog to go into the crate. The pooch should enter on their own.
• Don't leave toys in the crate that a dog can potentially chew to pieces and swallow.
• Don't allow children or adults to tease your dog when it is crated.
• Do keep your training sessions brief and very gradually build up to more time spent in the crate.
• Do toss treats into the crate and encourage your dog to retrieve them and explore the crate on its own.
• Do feed the dog meals in the crate, keeping the door open so the dog can exit after the meal is finished.
• Do place the crate in a social area of the house, such as the living room or kitchen so your dog doesn't feel isolated when its in the crate.
• Do be sure to let your dog outside to eliminate before crating him.

This is an easy first exercise. When your dog isn't in the room place a few "cookies" in their crate, this could be a favorite toy, peanut butter kong, hot dogs, etc. For the sake of clarity we will call all treats "cookies." Let your dog discover the cookies on their own. The crate isn't scary, it's the bearer of delicious fun! Leave the door open the first few times you do this. If your dog seems happy and secure in the crate close the door for a few seconds, while he is happily munching, then open to allow him to exit.

Once your dog is entering the crate on his own you can move on to more interactive games. Get a large amount of small cookies ready and begin by tossing one into the crate. Let your dog enter on its own, do not coax or force the dog into the crate. Once the dog enters immediately praise them, after they eat their cookie call them back to you and then throw another cookie into the crate so they will re-enter. Repeat this process for 5-10 minutes. Remember to stay positive and pay attention to your dog, if they are getting bored with the game be sure to give them a break, you can always play again later.

After your dog is comfortable retrieving cookies in the crate it's time to add to Game #2 by closing the door for short periods of time. Start by tossing a cookie in. Fido will enter to retrieve the cookie, now close the door for 2-3 seconds. The goal here is for your dog to stay quiet and calm, we don't want to close the door for too long or they may bark, whine or scratch at the door. If they do any of these things and we open the door we are reinforcing bad behavior. "If I just whine a bit, they open the crate door..." So keep it brief and slowly add a few more seconds to each training session.

This is an incredibly easy exercise that I have used for all of my foster dogs. Simply feed your dog their meals in the crate. I start with the door open but usually after a few days you'll notice the dog is so excited about dinner time that they won't even notice if you close the door. If you do close the door be sure to stand by and open it before they finish their meal so they can exit freely.

We want our dog to exit their crate gracefully and calmly. This is for two main reasons. #1 A dog that bolts out of their crate may run into you or someone else. More importantly #2 For safety. Imagine you're transporting your crated dog to the vet for their annual check-up. You open the car door then open their crate and the dog excitedly bolts from the crate into a busy parking lot or street. It's very important that your dog stays put until you tell it otherwise. Once a dog is comfortable being crated, with the door closed, you can teach them to exit calmly. The easiest method I've found is simply closing the door when your dog tries to bolt. Toss a cookie into the crate. When your dog enters close the door. Now open the door. If your dog stays put then praise them and give them a cookie. If they begin to move forward close the door. Wait until Fido has settled down again and open the door a few inches. If he moves forward, close it. If he stays put open it a bit wider, and wider, until you can give him a cookie. Then call him out of the crate, or better yet assign a release word such as "ok" "release" "break" or any other word that you use for releasing your dog from other commands such as sit and stay. If you are unfamiliar with release words then give it a Google! Release words make training much easier! Repeat this exercise for 5-10 minutes at a time. It won't take long for him to realize that bolting out the crate isn't ok.

Once your dog is comfortable entering the crate, and when you close the door for a few minutes at a time, you can begin rewarding relaxation. Remember, one of our goals is to make the crate the dog's calm, safe place where they can sleep/relax. Toss a treat into the crate and give your dog their command to lie down. Praise and treat. Do not release the dog from their down. Wait for cues that the dog is relaxed, these include: sighing, rolling onto it's side, stretching, yawning, licking their lips, resting their head on their paws, and even blinking. Praise them every time they do one of these things, try not to use large treats or excitable praise, just a calm "good" or "yes" or a light pet works great. After they have relaxed, and you have praised them, you may give them their release word.

You may be wondering why I haven't mentioned using a command, besides a release word, in any of these games. Before we can assign commands the dog needs to feel comfortable with the game/task as well as execute the desired behavior entirely. For instance, if you want your dog to enter the crate, lie down and stay then avoid assigning a cue until the dog is consistently doing all of the above. Also, if we assign "kennel up" or "crate" to entering the crate and the dog hasn't decided that it loves it's crate yet then the dog may learn to dread the command and associate it with negative consequences. Once your pooch is exhibiting the full behavior for entering their crate, laying down, staying put and relaxing without exhibiting signs of frustration or anxiety you can begin using a verbal and/or hand cue.

Crates are much like a wolf's den; a safe, warm, place for your dog to rest. Crate training has several benefits. A small investment of your time and patience will help make traveling, potty-training, and leaving the house much easier and more enjoyable for both you and your dog. Check back soon for more crate-related training posts including: How to Teach your Dog to Sleep in their Kennel Through the Night and Advanced Crate Games.


Introductory Crate Training Games for Dogs. (2015, February 16). Retrieved July 14, 2020, from https://www.twincitiespetrescue.org/blog/introductory-crate-training-games-dogs/

Barking problems are among the most common complaints that dog owners have. Why do dogs bark? Well, for a variety of reasons. Dogs will bark if they feel threatened. They may bark when they play and get excited. Some dogs will bark for attention. Some will bark if they are in pain and they'll even bark when they're lonely, bored or stressed. Certain breeds or breed types are also genetically inclined to bark more than others.

How you'll prevent or resolve your issue with barking will partially depend on what is triggering your dog to bark. For example if your dog is barking or vocalizing because they're in pain, treating the source of his pain would be the obvious solution. If your dog is barking through the front window as dogs pass by your house, blocking off his access to that window is a simple way to help prevent his barking.

Keep in mind that the more your dog practices barking the better they'll get at it. So identifying what is triggering your dog to bark and if all possible, removing the trigger or trying to stop the barking before it occurs is the simplest way to prevent the barking.

Anti-bark collars which use shock are inhumane and are inappropriate for most kinds of barking problems (and often make the problem worse!). With the right kind of help and a strong desire to stop the problem, most pet parents can successfully resolve barking issues in a safe and humane way.

If your dog is barking to alert you to someone or something outside, the answer is quite simple. Remove the source of what triggers his barking. For instance if your dog barks at people as they walk past your home, prevent his access to the window using furniture, closing blinds, blocking off the area with a baby gate or confining them to a room or their crate while you aren't at home.

Attention seeking barking is a learned behavior! When your dog brings a toy over to you, drops it on the floor, barks and you pick it up and throw it. You have just taught your dog, "When I bark you play!" Even if you look at them or verbally scold your dog when they bark, you will still be teaching them that their barking is a successful way to get your attention. How can you remedy it? You need to ignore his demands. Their barking may initially increase and so don't give in or they will learn that persistence pays off. However, if they bark and you really ignore them or even better if you ignore them and walk away until they are quiet, they will eventually learn that barking doesn't work and it will decrease.

How many dogs have been relegated to back-yard living because they jump all over family and guests whenever anyone walks through the door? Then when someone goes out to visit the lonesome dog, the jumping is worse because the dog is even more excited to see someone. Only now the dog is dirty, too. Not good! Let's talk about how to solve this problem once and for all.

We humans encourage dogs to jump on us by petting them, starting in puppyhood, when they stand on their hind legs to get closer to our loving face and hands. This normal unruly behavior is most likely attention-seeking in nature when it's not accompanied by aggression. They don't mean anything bad by jumping up, but very few people like being jumped on by a dog. As the dog gets older and stronger, they may scratch people and knock people down. It's not only children and elderly people, but bigger, stronger dogs can potentially knock adults down as well. The behavior becomes a way to get your attention, even you start pushing them off and telling them "No." The person may see this as a punishment, but your dog may not see it as aversive at all.

When a dog is still a very young puppy, the best way to handle jumping up is never to allow the puppy to even start doing it. Don't let anyone pet your cute little tootsie of a puppy unless all four feet are on the ground. If you teach your puppy that all petting happens when four feet are on the ground, your big dog will not be jumping on people. Instead, the dog will develop sweet ways of greeting people such as laying a head lovingly against your knee.

This training is harder than it sounds because dogs are usually rewarded by someone for this behavior, and chances are you have an adolescent or adult dog who is jumping on people. What do you do now? It's the same principle as with the puppy, only it will take longer.

Attack this problem on more than one front. Here are the ingredients for training your dog to greet with four on the floor:

1. Teach your dog to sit, even when excited. When the dog is IN the sit position, give petting, praise, and treats. Do not praise AFTER the dog has gotten up, because that is not the desired behavior. Praise and reward DURING the desired behavior, the sit. This is the crucial training step that most people miss. Teaching the dog not to jump isn't enough. We have to teach the dog that the petting will come when the dog is doing the right behavior. Put your focus on this moment. You'll start this training in unexciting situations (i.e. in your house without visitors) and gradually build to more and more exciting situations (i.e. your backyard, then a quiet park) until the dog is totally steady. It takes time and practice. Then start to incorporate strangers. Teaching a dog to sit in more distracting situations sounds easy, but they not only have to be able to sit, they have to be able to do it when they are highly excited, and that is not an easy feat! So don't expect it to be all fixed in a week. Signing up for a positive reinforcement training class may be a good way to start increasing distractions and the participants will be more likely to follow your instructions of asking your dog to sit when they approach them and ignoring jumping behavior.
2. Teach your dog that when they come to you or anyone else their default behavior is to sit and not jump. People should ask them to sit every time they approach them. Alternatively, teach them a come cuddle command (see below).
3. When you come into the house, come in quietly. Excited greetings when you come in encourage a dog to jump on you.
4. When you have guests arrive, keep your dog under leash or other control (i.e. confining them to a separate room) for about 15 minutes until everyone is settled. This is the time of wildest excitement for the dog, and it will be much easier for the dog to muster self-control after this initial period. Eventually you will want to train this behavior without a leash, too.
5. Never let anyone pet or otherwise give your dog attention when they are standing on their hind legs. The best remedy for jumping up is to withhold attention. This is different for every dog. For some dogs you can keep your hands to yourself and turn a hip toward the dog or turn your back on the dog, but for some dogs you may have to actually leave the room (separating yourself from the dog), until your training has progressed to the point of being able to get the dog to "sit" on cue. When the dog has been jumping and stops jumping, ask them for a couple of commands before petting to separate the jumping behavior from the reward of petting. This request is recommended because some dogs are so smart they will jump and then sit just to be petted.
6. If you are going to do anything to interrupt your dog's jumping, keep in mind that your goal is a dog that is safe with people. Don't fall into the trap of trying quick-fix methods for jumping up, such as stepping on the dog's toes or whacking them in their chest with your knee. These methods cause pain, which could make them fearful of people, or worse, injure them. Any training method that punishes your dog when, in their mind, they are being friendly to your guests, could damage your dog's good attitude toward guests, so be careful about that too. You want to give them a chance to earn praise for good behavior, not be getting in trouble when all they are trying to do is say hello.
7. Finally, a head collar may help as it gives you more control as you increase distractions.

One good way to teach your dog to greet without jumping is a simple cue to go to the person's knees. Start by putting your open hands, palms facing outward, on the front of your knees. You'll be bending forward to get your hands here. Tell your dog "come cuddle," and your dog will likely be drawn to your inviting hands. Pet your dog.

Do the "come cuddle" practice over a few sessions until the dog responds quickly. Then find someone else to help you, have them take the position, point to them, and tell your dog to "go cuddle." Have them encourage the dog verbally to come to them, and give petting when the dog arrives. Then you call the dog to "come cuddle" to your hands at your knees.

Do a few repetitions back and forth, stopping before the dog gets bored. Repeat this, and soon you'll find when you say "go cuddle," your dog will aim for a person's knees even if their hands are not there. Prompt the person to lean down and pet the dog at knee level-be firm with people that they must not ruin your training by inviting your dog to jump up on them!

You may not mind your small dog jumping up on you, but give this some thought. You're not going to want the dog to spoil someone's clothing by clawing at their legs. Also, a little dog jumping and expecting to be caught can be injured if the person misses.

Many of us see no reason to teach our dogs not to jump up. We don't mind, and if a friend or relative needs the dog not to jump, we simply put the dog on leash.

We get older, though, and our dogs age even faster than we do. Besides age, many physical problems can arise that make jumping up downright dangerous. At some point in your dog's life, jumping will become a hazard to them. Your dog will live with less risk of pain if taught early on not to jump.

The non-jumping dog's life will include more petting and love, because it's so much easier and more enjoyable to pet a dog who has four feet on the ground.


Copyright 2014 - 2018 by the Veterinary Information Network, Inc. All rights reserved.

A dog whose exercise needs are met may rest more calmly at home and be less fretful when left alone. The modern dog-management mantra of "A good dog is a tired dog" is gospel to many people. Exercise can improve bone and joint health. Heart and lung function can improve. Sport and working dogs need the right exercise to be able to perform well. Exercise makes show dogs look better and feel better to a judge's exploring hands.

Some exercise is better than other exercise. The best exercise channels the activity of both mind and body. The best exercise is purposeful, with a purpose that increases the dog's ability to live happily in human society. The best exercise is balanced by teaching the dog how to be calm and physically composed through regular practice of this skill.

Excessive or inappropriate exercise can damage a dog's body and mind. Jumping high in the air to chase a toy and landing awkwardly has crippled many dogs. The epidemic of dog knee injuries testifies to the results of human thinking that "if some is good, more is better" when it comes to wild canine exercise.

You don't need to take up marathon running in order to adequately exercise your dog, and in fact you could harm your dog that way. Walks with your dog can be great for both of you, but even these don't have to be long distance.

Going to training classes with your dog will help educate you on how to give purpose to your outings together-several months of classes for large and working-type breeds. Practice and use the skills you learn in class when you're out with your dog. Choose places for your outings that help you form the right belief system in your dog's mind for the temperament your dog needs to live safely with humans. A dog that tries to "guard" against all strangers is neither happy nor likely to live out a full lifespan. Help your dog learn to enjoy human society and to enjoy meeting friendly people.

Teach your dog to retrieve, using one of the many positive teaching methods available now. Some dogs may require months to learn, but that's okay-it's all good mental exercise and bonding time between you and your dog! A dog who retrieves is easy to exercise by throwing a favorite toy. If you don't have a fenced area, keep the dog on a long line during this game, and of course don't throw the object farther than the length of the line.

Dogs enjoy catching tennis balls, and lightweight toys like these are okay for catching. Don't throw a heavy object for a dog to catch, because it could damage the teeth, neck, or other part of the body. Don't throw sticks for a dog to catch or fetch. Too many dogs have suffered serious injury from sticks jammed into the back of the mouth or throat.

Whatever you throw, keep the throws low so the dog doesn't jump up and land on just the hind legs. Injuries can result from these landings. Since flying discs often rise on the wind higher than you intended, you may choose to completely avoid them for retrieving games outdoors.

As in most other things, moderation works admirably for dogs when it comes to exercise. Dog use body language to communicate, and many dogs will get enough exercise just from spending interesting days with people and other animals they enjoy. Exercise that is healthy for both mind and body is the very best kind of exercise. 30-60 minutes of daily exercise is best and better than a 2 hour hike once a week as the only source of exercise. If training for distance than use training similar to runners and increase distance 5-10% each week until goal distance is achieved. If pet seems stiff or sore back off distance to when the dog was not sore.

Dogs can experience heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Unlike humans, dogs do not have an efficient body-cooling system. Young dogs and old dogs have poorer temperature regulating abilities than dogs in the prime of life and the peak of physical condition. Dogs with shortened muzzles are at an enormous disadvantage in heat tolerance. Black dogs in the sun are at greatly increased risk of overheating, as are long-haired dogs whether in sun or not.

Under ideal conditions, consider the top temperature for working a dog (or allowing a dog to play hard) to be about 85° F (29.4°C). If the dog is young, old, black, long-haired, short-muzzled, not in perfect health, not acclimated to the outdoors, etc., 85°F would be too high. That would also be too high when humidity is also high. Note that this situation can easily exist inside a house that is not air-conditioned. Some dogs are dependent upon air conditioning for their very survival in summer.

If your dog is going to be jumping, doing a lot of running, pulling a sled, or other physically intense exercise, make sure the dog receives the correct regular exercise that our human "weekend athlete" forgets to do! Don't just take the dog to a dog park to run crazy and call that adequate.

Teach your dog how to rest calmly. It may be fine for your dog to scamper around your house-depending on the size of the dog, the size of the house, and the dog's individual tendency to crash into furniture. Some dogs are quite agile in close spaces, and others not at all.

Avoid the routine of crating your dog all day, and then having the dog "explode" out of the crate for a wild-eyed exercise session. This can lead to future behavior problems. Delay exercise until a few minutes after letting the dog out of the crate. Also give a dog time to unwind after exciting exercise before you crate the dog and leave for work.


Spindel, M., DVM, MS. (2004). VetPartner Featured Articles. Retrieved July 14, 2020, from https://veterinarypartner.vin.com/default.aspx?pid=19239